By the shores of Gucheng Lake in Gaochun, Nanjing, lies an autumn delicacy that captivates countless food lovers—the Gucheng Lake hairy crab. Hailed as the “Crown of Crabs,” it is not only a National Geographical Indication Protected Product but also China’s first well-known trademark in the aquaculture industry.
I. Crystal-Clear Waters Nurture Superior Crabs
With waters spanning a hundred li in all directions, Gucheng Lake is abundant in aquatic vegetation and boasts pristine, unpolluted water. Gaochun District has over 220,000 mu of high-quality crab ponds. The crab farmers adhere to a philosophy of “slow-growing“—using no hormones, no growth-accelerating agents, and allowing every crab to mature naturally through the full cycle of molting.
The feeding regimen is equally meticulous, following a “three meat, three vegetable” formula: snails, small fish, and shrimp, combined with soybeans, corn, and aquatic plants. This careful nourishment gives Gucheng Lake crabs their signature eight characteristics: “plump, large, aromatic, fresh, sweet, green, early, and beautiful. “
II. Green Shell, White Belly, Golden Claws, Yellow Leg Hairs
A qualified Gucheng Lake crab is instantly recognizable by its distinctive features:
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Green Shell: The carapace has a bluish-gray hue, smooth and glossy.
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White Belly: The underbelly is crystal clear and pristine white, free of dark spots.
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Yellow Leg Hairs: The hairs on the crab legs are long and golden yellow, smooth and well-groomed.
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Golden Claws: The crab pincers are golden, firm, and powerful—when placed on a glass plate, they stand erect on all eight legs, presenting a majestic appearance.
III. Rich Roe and Golden Huang: The Perfect Season
As the saying goes, “Round navels in September, pointed navels in October.” September through November is the prime season for enjoying Gucheng Lake hairy crabs:
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September–October (female crabs) : The roe is plump and rich, glistening with red oil, with a savory, fragrant, and mellow flavor.
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October–November (male crabs) : The amber roe is translucent, viscous, and creamy—growing even more aromatic as the weather turns cooler.
Gucheng Lake crabs are known for arriving on the market early, often gracing dining tables ahead of other varieties. In 2024, the district’s annual crab production is expected to exceed 20,000 tons. This advantage of being the earliest to market has given Gaochun crab farmers a head start in the industry.
IV. Steaming Is the Supreme Tribute to Natural Flavor
For such a premium crab, the highest respect is to prepare it by steaming. A refined approach involves: thoroughly scrubbing the live crabs, removing the intestinal tract via the belly flap, drizzling with Shaoxing wine, sprinkling with Sichuan peppercorns and salt, and tying the claws and legs securely with string. Steamed over high heat with abundant water, they are served with a dipping sauce of minced ginger and aged vinegar—the white, delicate crab meat paired with the golden roe creates the grandest celebration of autumn in every bite.
In 2020, Gaochun’s steamed Gucheng Lake hairy crab was selected as one of Jiangsu Province’s 100 Rural Landmark Dishes—a well-deserved recognition. Today, the Gucheng Lake crab industry has developed into a full industrial chain, employing over 100,000 people and generating an annual output value exceeding 10 billion yuan. A single crab is not only Gaochun’s culinary symbol but also a golden calling card that sustains an entire region.
When autumn arrives and the crabs are at their fullest, make your way to the shores of Gucheng Lake and taste this authentic Jinling autumn delicacy.
